Spear
A tutorial for making a minimalist dagger that can only stab.
Last updated
A tutorial for making a minimalist dagger that can only stab.
Last updated
Note: This tutorial recommends using discs of foam to build up the pommel and can because it is a more-consistent method than wrapping foam around the core. It also allows you to choose if you want to make the profiles of these parts round, rectangular, or octagonal. It will be easier to make sure that the final result is centered on the core, as well, which takes extra effort when wrapping foam around the core.
For something like a 5' hoplite spear you could get away with using solid 1/2" or .602 , but above that length, you'll want to reach for roll-wrapped tubes. For lengths under 2 meters (~78 3/4"), a carbon tube with a ~15mm OD and 2mm-2.5mm walls should be sufficient.
The biscuit can be round or square, it doesn't matter, it will be compressed around the core.
The biscuit should be twice the diameter of the core.
Before adhering the biscuit to the core, put two perpendicular pieces of strapping tape tightly over the end of the core.
This will help mitigate the hollow core eating into the biscuit.
Put a piece of outdoor carpet tape on the bottom face of your biscuit and place it on the end of the core.
Make sure to apply strapping tape to affix the biscuit to the core.
Cut a piece of strapping tape 1/2" to 1" across and about 5" to 6" long, lay the center on top of the biscuit, then pull down tightly on either end while you lay the rest down the core.
Do the same thing with a 2nd piece of strapping tape, but perpendicular to the first.
These should be 2.75"-3" in diameter and made out of a 2lb foam, like Camp Pads or 2# XLPE.
Punch holes through the middle of 2 of them that are the size of the core.
Cut a hole in 1 of them that is 1.75" in diameter.
Slide the first disc with the core-sized hole onto the core from the bottom.
Apply adhesive between the biscuit, core, and disc.
Apply adhesive to the bottom of the first disc and the core just below it, then slide on the 2nd disc with a core-sized hole onto the core and place it against the previously applied disc.
Cut a 1.75" diameter disc of a 4lb foam, like Puzzle Mat or 4# XLPE and insert that in the middle of the 2 lb disc you cut a 1.75" hole in.
Apply adhesive to the top of the biscuit and the 1st disc you put on the core, then place the disc where you applied the adhesive.
This disc and the first disc will sandwich the biscuit and parts may not lay exactly flat, this is fine.
Apply adhesive to the top of the previous disc and lay the last disc on top.
At this point, depending on the adhesive used, it may be a good idea to apply some tape up the sides of the can to hold the discs together while glue sets up.
It can also be a good idea to use strapping tape similar to how the biscuit was done, but less taut, to help secure the can to the core.
Note: Pommels are required to not be able to pass 1/2" through a 2" hole and for you to not be able to feel the core through the side of the pommel. Foam also compresses as it breaks down over time, so it is recommended to start with a diameter above 2" and to not make the side walls thin, though tapering down to the core/handle wrap is fine.
These should be 2.25" in diameter and made out of a 4lb foam, like Puzzle Mat or 4# XLPE.
These can be round, square, octagonal, etc. The example shows 2.25" diameter octagons.
Only the bottom two discs actually need to be the full 2.25" size. You can create a taper by using successively smaller discs, or create a dynamic profile to suit your needs, so long as the core cannot be felt through the side of the pommel and it still has a solid connection to the core.
Punch holes through the middle of 3 of them that are the size of the core.
Slide the first disc onto the core, stopping where you intend to have your handle end.
A small wrap of tape to act as a stop can be helpful.
Apply some adhesive between the disc and the core.
Apply adhesive to the bottom of the 1st disc and the core below it.
Slide the 2nd disc onto the core and lay it against the 1st.
Apply adhesive to the bottom of the 2nd disc and the core below it.
Slide the 3rd disc onto the core and lay it against the 2nd.
Attach some sort of blunting to the end of the core.
I usually use a metal bottle cap, held in place with hot glue. This particular choice not only protects the foam from the core, spreads out the force from the core against that foam, and has a rounded edge that won't eat into the outer disc, but the shape of it and the "teeth" it has also helps prevent it from moving around or coming off the end of the core laterally.
A penny or small metal disc will also work, but you will have wanted to apply one of those similarly to the biscuit.
You can slide the discs onto the core with no glue, put this blunting on the end, and then slide them down one by one in reverse order, applying adhesive in essentially the same manner.
Apply adhesive to the bottom disc and lay the final, solid, disc against it.
It is at this point that you would want to do any carving to the pommel's foam to adjust its profile.
If you do intend to carve away part of the upper part of the pommel, it would be good to first tape the bottom cap to the rest of the pommel and let the adhesive set, if relevant. That tape can be removed for when you do the carving.
Similarly to how the biscuit and can were affixed to the core with strapping tape, affix the last disc to the pommel and secure the pommel to the core.
The adhesive will do a lot of the work on its own, but this will help make sure things stay in place while it sets and add strength after it does.
2 11" pieces of strapping tape should be enough to center on the end of the pommel and wrap down the sides to the core.
Cut a disc of stab tip foam at the same shape/diameter of the discs you used for the can.
The best options for stab tip foam are Ensolite and NBR Rubber.
You will want a 1" thick disc for this. If your foam is only 1/2" thick, cut two discs and layer them together.
Apply adhesive to the top of the can and then lay the stab tip disc on top of it.
Apply 2 1" wide, 7" long strips of strapping tape over the top of the stab tip and down the sides of the can to secure the tip and reduce roll.
Lay the tape across the top of the stab tip with no tension or slack (you don't want to compress the foam).
When you get to the sides of the can, just below the stab tip foam, pull the tape taut as you lay down the rest.
Wrap the side of the can in cloth tape to secure that strapping tape.
Apply some double sided carpet tape up the length of the handle.
Wrap the handle with your choice of handle wrap, securing either end with cloth tape to prevent it from unrolling.
Apply cloth tape to the pommel and can to cover up the foam.
Cut an octagon that is 3" wider than the diameter of your stab tip out of your choice of cloth.
Cut a strip of carpet tape down to 1/2" to 1" and wrap that around the can, just below the stab tip foam.
Place the cover flat on a table, then place the dagger upside down in the center of it.
On two opposing sides, tack the fabric against the ring of carpet tape.
Do the same to the perpendicular sides.
This will have created pleats in the cover. Roll these pleats all in the same direction to lay the fabric against the can and then wrap it in cloth tape to secure the cover on the can.
